Molopo 2019 Recce Trip: A Journey Along One of Southern Africa’s Oldest Rivers
By Dries Blignaut
Southern Africa is home to many hidden gems, and one of the most fascinating is the Molopo River. Spanning approximately 960 kilometers, this ancient river is a lifeline for the ecosystems across Botswana, Namibia, and South Africa, with all three countries sharing its vast basin. Although it hasn’t seen a flood in over 100 years, the Molopo River continues to shape the landscapes it touches. In 2019, I embarked on a journey along this river, exploring some of the most remote and scenic locations the region has to offer. Join me as I recount our adventure from Joburg to Riemvasmaak, with plenty of off-grid camping, wildlife, and 4×4 fun along the way.
Day 1: Molopo Nature Reserve (630 km)
We started our journey early, leaving Johannesburg at 5:40 am. After a quick pitstop just outside Coligny, we hit the road, traveling along the N14 through Sanieshof and Delareyville. Along the way, we found a quaint coffee shop and biltong den in Sanieshof, perfect for a quick break.
Vryburg was our last major stop before heading off the beaten path. Just before reaching Vryburg, we stopped at Mam’s Mega Stop—a great spot for fuel, ice, and wood before you lose access to large shops. From here, it was a 57 km dirt road to Vorstershoop and another 18 km to our first campsite at Molopo Nature Reserve.
The Molopo Nature Reserve was a magical place to spend the night. The campsite offered clean ablutions, hot showers, and even electric points in the kitchen. Despite its remote location, the reserve was teeming with wildlife, making it an unexpected delight for our first stop.
Day 2: Leeupan Guest Farm (253 km)
After a restful night at Molopo, we set out toward Van Zylsrus, driving through the game reserve along the Molopo River. Be prepared for a bit of manual labor—there are about seven farm gates to open and close along the way.
We made a pitstop at Springbok Pan, where we met Fernando du Preez, a colorful character who added some local charm to our journey. Our next stop was the Van Zylsrus Hotel, a must-visit for anyone passing through. The hotel is known for its excellent food and welcoming atmosphere. After a leisurely lunch, we stocked up on fuel and ice before hitting the dirt roads again, this time toward Leeupan Guest Farm.
Leeupan was a serene spot to camp. The campsite is situated within a boma, offering some protection from the elements. There’s running water, a flush toilet, and a hot shower powered by a traditional donkey boiler—just be sure to keep the fire stoked if you want a warm shower!
Day 3: Loch Maree (168 km)
After an early start, we made our way from Leeupan to Loch Maree, following the Molopo River once again. The road was rocky, and there were even more gates to open, but the scenic views more than made up for the effort. The best views were along the Botswana side of the river, divided from South Africa by a simple wire fence.
We arrived at Loch Maree around lunchtime. This campsite had excellent facilities, including four showers and flush toilets with solar-powered hot water. There are also chalets available if you’re not in the mood for camping. For those seeking something a bit more rustic, the bush camp closer to the viewpoint offers a more rugged experience.
That evening, we enjoyed sundowners at the viewpoint—a perfect way to end the day, with a panoramic view of the surrounding red sand dunes and salt pans.
Day 4: Exploring Loch Maree’s Dunes
We kicked off Day 4 with an early morning trip to the viewpoint for sunrise photos and coffee. Loch Maree is famous for its salt pan, which spans 24 km in circumference and boasts a shimmering white surface, surrounded by red dunes. It’s an unforgettable sight, especially after the rains when wildflowers bloom in a vibrant display of yellow.
The highlight of the day, however, was driving the nearby dunes. These dunes can be challenging, with a few technical spots, but they’re a lot of fun for anyone with 4×4 experience. After a day of sand, we gathered around a campfire, gazing up at the endless stars.
Day 5: Riemvasmaak (95 km from Augrabies Falls)
We left Loch Maree at 8:00 am, continuing our journey along the Molopo River towards Kakamas. The scenery along this stretch was breathtaking, with dirt roads winding through the rugged landscape. Kakamas was our last stop for fuel, ice, and other essentials before we headed off to Riemvasmaak, with a quick detour to visit the stunning Augrabies Falls.
Arriving at Riemvasmaak was like stepping into another world. The campsites are nestled along the Molopo Riverbed, surrounded by towering cliffs. The facilities are basic but adequate, with flush toilets and a single cold-water shower. For the adventurous, there’s even a hot spring nearby, perfect for a refreshing dip under the stars.
Day 6: Exploring Riemvasmaak
Riemvasmaak offers plenty of activities for the adventurous. You can choose from three 4×4 trails or opt for a 14 km hike along the Molopo River to its confluence with the Orange River. We chose to drive along the river, ending our journey at the point where the Molopo meets the mighty Orange River. The sight of the lush riverbanks contrasting with the arid landscape was truly awe-inspiring.
After a leisurely breakfast on the riverbank, we returned to camp, cameras in hand, capturing the incredible scenery and abundant wildlife.
Day 7: The Journey Home
All good things must come to an end, and on Day 7, we packed up and began our journey back to Johannesburg. Depending on your time and mood, there are a few routes to consider. You can head straight back to Joburg, or take a more relaxed approach with a stopover at Oranje Rus Resort on Kanoneiland or even back at Molopo Nature Reserve for one last night in the bush.
Conclusion
The Molopo Recce Trip was an unforgettable adventure, offering a perfect blend of rugged landscapes, remote campsites, and exciting 4×4 driving. If you’re looking to explore one of Southern Africa’s hidden gems, I highly recommend planning your own journey along the Molopo River. With its rich history, breathtaking scenery, and opportunities for off-the-grid exploration, it’s a trip that will stay with you long after you return home.
Molopo Rout Markers:
Access the map here
Thanks Mike