Exploring Kgalagadi: Our Ultimate Off-Grid Adventure
Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, straddling South Africa and Botswana, is a premier destination for an off-grid Kgalagadi trip. Known for its red dunes, vast savannas, and abundant wildlife, this park offers a thrilling self-drive and camping experience. In May 2024, my friends and I embarked on an unforgettable journey through Kgalagadi, and in this updated 2025 guide, I’ll share our itinerary, practical tips, and everything you need to plan your own adventure in this remote wilderness.
Index
- Planning the trip
- Accommodation Options
- Essential Tips
- First Day in the Park
- Wildlife Encounters
- Exploring the Park
- Augrabies and Home
Planning the Trip
Planning a Kgalagadi trip requires foresight, especially since accommodation in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park books up quickly. Having visited before, I helped my friends plan this adventure, but even with experience, securing spots was tough. Chalets in main camps like Twee Rivieren and Nossob are in high demand, and even campsites require booking 12 months in advance when reservations open through the South African National Parks (SANParks) website. Start by deciding your travel dates—aim for the dry season (May to October) for better wildlife viewing and cooler temperatures (15–25°C/59–77°F). Create a checklist for gear, permits, and vehicle prep, as the park’s remote location and rough roads demand self-sufficiency.
Accommodation Options
We booked our Kgalagadi trip in August 2023 for May 2024, giving us ample time to prepare. Our itinerary included:
- De Werf Lodge (Keimoes) – 1 night
- Twee Rivieren (Kgalagadi) – 2 nights
- Nossob (Kgalagadi) – 3 nights
- Twee Rivieren (Kgalagadi) – 1 night
- Augrabies Waterfall (Augrabies National Park) – 1 night
The long lead time allowed us to save for expenses like fuel, which can be significant—our journey from Cape Town to Kgalagadi and back covered over 2,000 km. We set up a joint savings account to cover costs, including SANParks Wild Cards for park entry. A few months before departure, we serviced our 4×4 vehicles, ensuring auxiliary batteries and DC-to-DC/solar chargers were in top shape to power our fridges during long drives and overnight stops. Check your vehicle’s battery health—remote areas like Kgalagadi are no place for a breakdown.
Essential Tips
Preparation is key for a successful Kgalagadi trip, especially for self-drive and camping. For provisions, stock up on food and water in advance. I ordered vacuum-packed meat from a trusted butcher, frozen at -4°C, which saved space and power in my National Luna Twin Weekender fridge. This temperature keeps meat frozen at the bottom while allowing drinks, salads, and milk to stay cool at the top without freezing—perfect for a 7-day trip. Pack the meat in your deep freezer’s basket, then transfer it to the camping fridge on departure day to save weight.
For travel logistics, we drove 770 km from Cape Town to Keimoes on the first day, staying at De Werf Lodge (https://dewerflodge.com/). This charming lodge offers braai drums, free firewood, and a restaurant—ideal for relaxing before the final 260 km to Kgalagadi. Fill up fuel in Keimoes at LKL pump station (friendly service, reasonable prices) or Upington, as fuel in the park is pricier. The Red Dunes Road from Upington to Askham (220 km) has no cell reception, so ensure your vehicle is in top condition—overfilling fuel tanks can cause issues, as I learned when my vehicle’s ECU malfunctioned due to a flooded charcoal canister.
First Day in the Park
We left Keimoes at 7:00 AM, grabbed breakfast in Upington, and arrived at Kgalagadi’s Twee Rivieren gate by 10:00 AM—perfect timing for a first drive while awaiting our 2:00 PM check-in. Kgalagadi operates on a permit system for self-drives: collect a permit at reception before driving, noting your route, and return it upon re-entering camp to confirm your safety. If you don’t return by gate closing time, rangers will search for you. We informed the staff we’d explore the area around Twee Rivieren, spotting oryx and wildebeest before returning early to shop at the camp store and check in. The staff were accommodating, giving us our keys by 1:00 PM. We unpacked, enjoyed a cold beer, and relaxed, soaking in the campsite’s serene views.
Wildlife Encounters
Our Kgalagadi trip was filled with incredible wildlife encounters. On the first day, we saw oryx (gemsbok) and wildebeest near Twee Rivieren. At Nossob, the northern section of the park was teeming with springbok herds—thousands in some areas—alongside ostriches and blue wildebeest. Birdlife was a highlight: we spotted goshawks preying on doves at Lanklaas waterhole, a greater kestrel battling black-backed jackals over an oryx kill near Kij Kij, and various species at waterholes and picnic sites. At Nossob’s hide, we watched black-backed jackals drinking cautiously at night, their heads swiveling for predators. On Marie’s Loop, we found leopard tracks with cub prints, though the cats remained elusive. We also encountered an oryx “nursery” where calves are left under supervision while mothers graze—a fascinating behavior unique to this species.
Exploring the Park
Kgalagadi’s road network follows two ancient riverbeds, the Auob and Nossob, forming a V-shape with Twee Rivieren (“Two Rivers”) at the junction, marking the main South African gate. The Auob River runs west to Mata Mata (Namibia border), while the Nossob River heads north to Mabuasehube (Botswana border). These fossilized riverbeds can flood during heavy rains, temporarily turning into rivers again.
On Day 2, we tackled the Leeudrill 4×4 Trail near Twee Rivieren, a 14 km route requiring low-range 4×4 (not for difficulty, but to protect the environment). Book this trail at reception for R180 per vehicle—arrive early, as spots are limited. The trail, driven west from Nossob Road to Mata Mata Road, features hard dune sand, corrugations, and a few steep climbs. It’s manageable with sand-driving experience, but you can’t go off-trail, so expect cross-axle challenges. We saw ostriches and oryx, though early morning may not be ideal for wildlife. We then braaied at Auchterlonie Picnic Site, which has clean toilets and a museum showcasing historical life in the area.
The drive from Twee Rivieren to Nossob (162 km) takes 4–5 hours at a leisurely pace. Stop at Melkvlei and Dikbaardskolk picnic sites (at 1/3 and 2/3 of the route) for breaks—both have braai facilities and clean ablutions, but check for lions before exiting your vehicle. On the way, we saw a spotted hyena near Kij Kij and honey badgers digging with a kestrel nearby. At Nossob, we explored Marie’s Loop (11 km, 8 km south of camp), spotting leopard tracks and revisiting a waterhole (Marie’s Gat) where I’d previously seen a lioness with cubs. Drive this loop clockwise in the morning for better track visibility with the sun behind you.
Augrabies and Home
On our final day in Kgalagadi, we left Twee Rivieren early, handed in our permits, and drove the Rooi Duine Road to Upington, arriving by 9:30 AM for breakfast. After a 40 km drive to Keimoes, we continued to Augrabies National Park, arriving at 12:30 PM. We checked into a family chalet early and arranged an early exit permit for a 5:30 AM departure the next day. The Augrabies Falls were at their lowest level I’d seen, with some walkways still damaged from past floods, but the sight remained awe-inspiring. We drove the park’s routes, crossing low water bridges and visiting viewpoints 5 and 6, marveling at the Orange River’s journey from Lesotho to the Atlantic.
After an early dinner at the park restaurant—I recommend the springbok venison pie with monkey gland sauce—we relaxed with a rugby game on TV. The next morning, we left at 5:30 AM, driving 850 km back to Cape Town via Kakamas, Springbok, and Klawer. We stopped for a Wimpy brunch in Klawer (cheeseburger and strawberry milkshake) and arrived home by 1:45 PM. Reflecting on our Kgalagadi trip, I’m already planning my next adventure—perhaps the Richtersveld or Namibia. I hope this guide inspires your own off-grid journey in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park!
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